Rock Bottom - Review

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Sometimes, life throws you some surprises - like when you find out a friend is holding his three-year old’s birthday party in a brew pub. (He is British, so I suppose it shouldn’t be that surprising.

Last week, we reviewed Old Chicago Pizza, which happens to be owned by Rock Bottom, so I wasn’t really surprised that Rock Bottom also serves pizza. My expectation was that it would be very similar to Old Chicago’s. However, I was in the mood for pizza and their pepperoni pizza sounded interesting, so I decided to add Rock Bottom as a reviewed pizza.

It turns out the assumption that they serve something similar to Old Chicago is completely false.

Rock Bottom isn’t a proper pizza place, and they don’t make customizable pizzas, in fact, they only make four pizzas, and only in one size. However, since one of the four pizzas is an “ordinary” pepperoni pizza, it qualifies for review.

Their pepperoni pizza is described as follows:

Not one, but two layers of seasoned pepperoni with a blend of four cheeses and fresh California tomato sauce.

The size of the pizza is not documented, but it measured in at 10″.

When this pizza arrived, it was clear that it was loaded. Loaded with pepperoni and loaded with sauce. The crust was more of a Neopolitan-style, although thicker, so perhaps California-style would be more appropriate and well-cooked through. The most unique aspect of the pizza was that it was also covered with black peppercorns - presumably that’s what “seasoned pepperoni” means. Whatever the logic behind the peppercorns, it worked well. It was a good pizza.

I don’t know what the four cheeses in the cheese blend were, but they were good, with a nice complementary flavor.

The pepperoni was good, and the peppers really enhanced their flavor. They also lent the entire pizza a peppery zing. Kids might find it too spicy.

The sauce was really the star of the pizza, it was very full-bodied and flavorful. I can’t say that I could compare it to any sauce I’ve had before on a pizza. There was a hint of something familiar and long-forgotten, but I couldn’t put my finger on it.

The weakest link was the crust, and it wasn’t that weak. Although the literature says it was a “hand-stretched Honey Brown Ale crust”, there really wasn’t a lot of flavor in the crust. It was thoroughly cooked, and in no way detracted from the rest of the pizza.

This pizza also had something else going for it, too: At $9.29 for a 10″ pizza, it’s one of the cheapest per square inch I’ve had for some time. In this time of insanely inflated flour prices, that’s a good thing.

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I’ll also take a moment to comment on the children’s birthday party. Although you might not think of it as your first choice, it worked out fairly well. Rock Bottom’s children menu includes a build-it-yourself pizza, in which the children are brought a stretched dough, sauce, cheese and pepperoni. They make the pizzas at their table, and then they are taken away and fired in the ovens before being returned to the kids. This is what they did for the birthday party, and the kids really loved it.

There’s no play area or place to put up decorations, but the parents can get tanked and take a tour of the brewery.

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery
National Chain
Review location:
14205 S 50th St.
Phoenix, AZ 85044
(480) 598-1300

10″ Pepperoni Pizza, $9.29 or $0.12 (0.118) per square inch.

Recommended

Boston’s - The Gourmet Pizza - Review

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Never deviate from the script, those are the rules, and then I go and break them.

I’d passed the Boston’s on University, near the University the other day when I was down seeing Richard Dawkins speaking at Gammage. I made a mental note to come back soon, and the opportunity presented itself a little sooner than I expected, albeit at a different location, down in Gilbert.

Boston’s is a bit of a sports-themed place, with a separate full-bar area. They’ve also got quite a diverse menu and there were several non-pizza items that tempted me, but the Pizza Locust’s job is never done and I decided to stay the course.

Then I got around to looking at the “specialty” pizzas, and I was tempted to break from my rigorous testing guidelines once again. There were two pizzas on the menu that were particularly speaking out to me, the Ultimate Pepperoni, which had two kinds of pepperoni and a cheese blend, and the Ultimate Sausage, which added crushed red pepper, fresh parmesan cheese cooked over the top and fresh basil and oregano.

We were a long way from home and I knew that the odds of me getting back to Boston’s again anytime soon are astronomically against, so I decided I’d choose a specialty pizza, knowing that it would invalidate some of the testing controls I try to put in place.

I choose the Ultimate Sausage. My reasoning was that, the cheese blend included fontina, which isn’t a typical pizza cheese, therefore these was outside the standard ingredient list, and not typical of Boston’s other pizzas, which mostly just use mozzarella. The Ultimate Sausage pizza had standard mozzarella, with parmesan over the top. It’s not uncommon for me to put parmesan cheese on my pizza, so that was too far out of the ordinary. Similarly, crushed red pepper, basil and oregano are all either typical spice ingredients or a common shake on topping after the fact. Again, I wanted that pizza, and I didn’t have to go far to convince myself I wasn’t really breaking my rules.

Still, their individual pizza is only 8″ and I was feeling quite hungry, so I also had a bowl of french onion soup, which is just my favorite soup. I’ve never met a bowl of french onion soup I didn’t like, unless it came out of a Campbell’s soup can.

Warning bells should have been ringing in my head when, after ordering my pizza, the waitress put the order into the kitchen, and then came back to tell me they didn’t make an Ultimate Sausage pizza. “We make an Ultimate Pepperoni pizza,” she said, “We could throw a couple chunks of sausage on one of those if you’d like.”

Instead I asked for the menu and I showed her the Ultimate Sausage pizza on their menu, complete with full-color photograph. To be fair, it was on their Pizza Madness menu (or something like that) rather than the main menu, but the fact that neither she nor the cooks apparently knew about it should have been a warning to me.

The menu read something like this: “We take a layer of our Italian Sausage, cover it with mozzarella cheese, crushed red peppers, slices of parmesan cheese and fresh basil and oregano to make the Ultimate Sausage pizza.” (Disclaimer: The Pizza Madness menu doesn’t show on their website, so I’m quoting that from memory, but I did go back after the meal and re-read it, just to make sure I wasn’t delusional.) I’m going to have to guess that the cook took the menu, read that description and tried to make the pizza.

Unfortunately, that may have been reading things just a little too literally.

For starters, the pizza looked nothing like the photograph, second, it had no sauce on it. If he was going to be that literal about following the description, I’m surprised it wasn’t just a layer of sausage on a bare plate - the description didn’t mention anything about a crust either, but he seemed to figure out that he needed one of those.

And yes, I checked, their other pizzas and they (for the most part) seemed to have sauce, and they even mention how great their pizza sauce is, so I assume sauceless is not the norm at Boston’s.

Sauceless and not looking like I expected, how did it stack up?

Not so well, I’m afraid.

The sausage was excellent, and having the crushed red pepper cooked into (under?) the cheese really made the flavor permeate throughout, which was good.

The crust was well cooked, but nothing special. The whole pizza, though, was dry, dry, dry.

I broke my rules of engagement for rating pizzas, and it really came back and bit me. I had to make a decision if I was going to ignore this trip and come back another day and try again, or write Boston’s off.

I also had french onion soup, and I mentioned, I’ve never had a french onion soup I didn’t like - until I ate at Boston’s. The soup was weird and tasted nothing like any I’ve had before. My wife tried it and her face was priceless. I won’t repeat what she thought it tasted like. She had a pasta dish with spiders or crustaceans or one of those undersea things and chicken - she didn’t care for it. My daughter had spaghetti and meatballs, and complained of stomach aches all the way home.

For those reasons, I’m writing Boston’s off. I cannot recommend them.

Boston’s - The Gourmet Pizza
1026 S. Gilbert Rd.
(480) 813-9223

8″ “Ultimate Sausage” pizza, $7.99 or $0.16 (0.159) per square inch

Not recommended

iPhone friendly?: Yes.

Old Chicago Pizza - Review

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Old Chicago Pizza - the name itself suggests that it must have been around for a long time - and indeed, it’s been around longer than I knew. I’ve driven past one of their locations for years and never knew it was a pizza place. Maybe they should put better signs out front like, “Old Chicago Pizza” rather than just “Old Chicago.” I’d always assumed it was a mafia-themed Italian place, like Olive Garden, only with tommy guns.

I was chocking down a slice of pizza at Cici’s the other day, when what comes on the radio? You guessed it: an ad for Old Chicago Pizza. See? Advertising works.

The next time I was in the area, I took the family into Old Chicago to give them a try.

I chose a 9″ “individual” sized pepperoni pizza, in thin crust. When it arrived at the table, I must say, it looked very good. The crust was puffed up and promised that elusive crisp, cooked, yet not burnt nor baked to hard tack that is so rare. It was cooked, and yet, never have I had a crust this soft and bread-like, and yet still a bit crunchy. I can say it was quite like any pizza crust I’ve had before. Unfortunately, the crust barely had any flavor, except at the extreme edges, which had been brushed with butter. The crust was also a bit uneven, with the puffy side representing the better-cooked end, but clearly it had heated unevenly in the oven.

The pepperoni was completely typical, supermarket variety.

The cheese was loaded and very stringy. It was so thick that I had to recut the pizza twice, as the cheese healed the slices. It was plentiful and had good texture, but, like the crust, not very flavorful.

The sauce, however, was overpowering. It was strongly weighted towards the “tomato” end of the sauce spectrum, it was thick, and it was almost all that could be tasted in each bite. While I liked the sauce, I like my pizza to be a balanced medley a flavors without one overpowering the others.

Everything had potential, though, and I’ll certainly give them another try, probably at another location to see if things vary from shop to shop.

I’m adding a new feature to the Pizza Locust reviews and that is an attribute I call “iPhone Friendliness.” So what does iPhone Friendly mean? It means the restaurant provides free wireless access for their customers, and Old Chicago passed with flying colors. In fact, I typed up much of this review on their wireless connection.

9″ Pepperoni pizza, $9.99 or $0.16 (0.157) per square inch

Conclusion: The jury is still out, but it wasn’t really a bad pizza, and it had real potential.

Old Chicago

5695 W Bell Rd

Glendale, AZ

(602) 938-8808

Cici’s Pizza - Review

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As is standard procedure here at Pizza Locust, we don’t do formal reviews of pizza buffets; however, I did eat at Cici’s Pizza for lunch this week and have some general observations.

For starters, it’s hard to take a pizza place seriously that serves a macaroni & cheese pizza - and not just as a joke on the menu for adventurous souls. (You know, like bars that serve bull testicles, assuming you’ll get so drunk someone will dare you into eating them.) They actually had one on the buffet line, and people were eating it!

Quick assessment: It’s not very good, but it certainly isn’t the worst all-you-can-eat pizza place I’ve ever been in. The crust is light and reminiscent of the individual pan crust from pizza hut. The sauce tastes far too much like spaghetti sauce rather than pizza sauce - in fact, I accidentally ate a “white” pizza slice (with pepperoni) and it was better than the regular pepperoni just because of the sauce. (It was the first slice I had at Cici’s and as I took it back to my table, I couldn’t help thinking it was the most unappealing, anemic-looking piece of pizza I’d ever had in my life, but that was before I realized that it had no sauce for color, and only the grease from the pepperoni gave it a reddish tinge.)

Salad on the salad bar was wilted, but the cinnamon rolls were really good.

I can’t say I’d recommend Cici’s pizza, but if you’re hungry, and not too picky about your pizza… it can be economical.

Upper Crust Pizza (Tucson) - Review

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We’re down in Tucson for the Gem & Mineral show. I was in the area of my favorite Tucson restaurant chain (Lucky Wishbone Chicken) and my favorite bookstore (Bookman’s) and playing with my new iPhone when I happened to catch an open wi-fi signal from some place called “Uppercrust.” Looking around, I discovered Upper Crust Pizza across the street, so I used their wi-fi connection to look up information about them. With four rave reviews and couple mediocre or worse ones over at City Search, I decided to give them a try for dinner before we left town.

It’s been a cold, rainy friday night, and we took the kids in for a couple pizzas.

Upper Crust is more of a take-out place, but they have six tables for dining in. Orders are placed at the counter. Pizzas come in four sizes, ranging from 10″ to 16″. They also sell enormous individual slices of pizza. Drinks are in cans and bottles only.

We ordered 2 10″ pizzas. One pepperoni, one sausage. The pepperoni pizza arrived first, the second pizza was made cheese only and they took it back and made the correct pizza without asking us. Consequently, I was finished with the pepperoni pizza before the sausage pizza arrived.

The pepperoni pizza was a good solid entry in the New York style pizza category. Although there was nothing that stood out as exceptional, everything was pretty serviceable. On the first piece, the crust was crispy enough to pick it up without flopping; however, the oil from the pepperoni seeped though the cuts and got under the pizza and softened up the rest of the pieces.

It was quite done - in fact, blackened, but not quite burnt - in a few places. The outer crust lacked a bit of flavor, but it wasn’t such that I was wont to leave it behind.

This was certainly a pizza I could imagine ordering for delivery, if I lived in that area. (In fact, I did live in that area when growing up, but this restaurant wasn’t there back then.)

I didn’t eat any of the second pizza, which was obviously rushed because of the preparation error. The feedback I got was that it was burnt on the outside and undercooked on the inside. I can’t confirm or deny that.

Prices are a bit confusing, the printed menus, the menu board and the actual prices seemed to be somewhat at odds. I was told that the menus are out of date and that flour prices have doubled (or was it tripled?) in the last 6 months. There’s going to be a price raise in three weeks.

For our visit, the price for the 10″ pepperoni appears to have been $8.75, which equates to $0.11 (0.111) per square inch.

Upper Crust Pizza
1909 E Grant Rd
Tucson, AZ
520-881-7000

Recommended

Vito’s Pizza (Mesa) - Review

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Many years ago (late 80’s, or early 90’s) my father and I ate at Vito’s Pizza on Lindsey Rd. in Mesa. At the time the area was a bit desolate and that’s all either of us remember about the place - that it was rather isolated. We remembered nothing at all about the pizza either good or bad.

My family and I were driving back into town past Vito’s today and I remembered that I remembered nothing about the food, so I decided we’d stop in for a pizza.

When we arrived, the place was only vaguely familiar. I wouldn’t swear that the building has been replaced, but it seems larger. It’s an unusual building, incorporating and over-the-road walkway and a car wash. The inside of the restaurant almost seems to wander around aimlessly, and even has an underground level. It was dinner hour and the place was busy, but it wasn’t full. We were seated immediately by the efficient staff. Perhaps it’s the demographics of the area, but we noted that almost all of the patrons were senior citizens.

We ordered two pizzas: a 9″ pepperoni for review and a larger sausage pizza. It didn’t take long to realize why my father and I cannot recall this pizza.

The Chicago-style pizza wasn’t exactly bad, but the crust, on both pizzas, is well in the running for the most uninspired, lackluster I’ve ever had. It was more like eating biscuits than pizza. One review, at Get Out AZ, even commented favorably on the buscuit-like crust - as if that were a good thing in a pizza!

The crust was so meek that it detracted from the rest of the pizza. Nothing could had saved the pizzas after that. The sauce and cheese were both fine, when isolated from the crust. The pepperoni was OK, but a bit too salty and the sausage didn’t stand out.

They’ve been in business 22 years, so they must be serving their market. There must be a lot of people in that area who like biscuits.

Not recommended
Cost: 9″ Pepperoni: $8.00 = $0.13 (0.126) /Sq In

Vitos’Pizza Place & Ristorante
1947 North Lindsay Road
Mesa, Arizona 85213
(480) 832-3311
N 33.45116 W 111.76942

Disambiguation notice: A few months ago we reviewed a different Vito’s Pizza, in Glendale. To the best of my knowledge, there is no affiliation between the two.

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Duners Pizza - Review

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Many people espouse that the little, one-off mom and pop pizza joints in strip malls make the best pizza. I don’t necessarily give that theory any credence, but I’m always on the lookout for them because the only way to find them is drive by one when you’re hungry.

We were out navigating the wastelands between the Pink Taco University of Phoenix Stadium and the I-10 looking for something to eat, when out of the desolation arose the signs of urban sprawl: A movie theatre and a bunch of shopping. As we whizzed by, the intriguingly named Duner’s Pizza caught my eye.

With no frame of common reference, I assumed (wrongly) that the name was pronounced “DONE ERS”, conjuring unfortunate associations in my mind of the Australian slang word, “dunny.” That association was immediately dispelled when we walked in the door. First, the place smelled impeccably clean. In fact, it smelled like it had just been washed down from floor to ceiling in disinfectant. Second, from the artwork on the walls, the signs and the menus it was apparent that “duners” (pronounced like “DUNE ERS”) refers to people who plow dune buggies across the sands. (I had no idea we were that far out into the wastelands. I thought you had to cross the California state line near Yuma before you got to Tatooine’s Dune Sea.)

The restaurant was clean, had three TVs (showing the same program!), seating for about 20 people (including several booths kitted out somewhat like dune buggy seats). Ordering is done at the counter.

We ordered their smallest (14″) pepperoni pizza.

There’s not much to say about this pizza, except that it was a classic example of “food services” pizza. The exact pizza you’d find at a lunch counter something similar. I can only imagine that the entire package is supplied lock, stock and barrel by the food service supplier.

“Generic” is exactly the word for it. Almost. Both of us detected a slightly familiar, unusual flavor in the cheese, but were unable to pin it down.

Any way we sliced it, it was an edible, but unexceptional pizza, in a clean, friendly restaurant.

Not really recommended, but if you’re in the area, on a dune buggy, perhaps, go here instead of the nearby Peter Piper.

Cost: 14″ pepperoni pizza, $12.75 = $0.08 (0.083)

Duner’s Pizza
9897 W. McDowell,
Building B, Ste 220
Phone: (623) 478-8099
N 33.46442º W 112.27058º
(I got a GPS for Christmas, so I’ll be noting restaurant coordinates where possible from now on.)

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Vito’s Pizza - Review

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How can you not like a pizza place run by a nice, elderly couple that first opened for business 52 year ago?

Five of us descended on Vito’s on a Thursday night en masse. It’s a small place, with a counter, about 6-8 booths for four, a large table for six in the middle and a couple tables that seem to be where the proprietors have taken up residence to watch TV when they aren’t making pizzas or serving, but could probably be pressed into service for a group of eight or so.

I mention the seating only because when we arrived, the restaurant was empty, save for the proprietors Vito and Rosa at the side table and one couple who had decided to sit at the table for six. The couple were yaking away, without food or drinks, completely oblivious to us trying to find a way to shoehorn our party into a booth built for four. Who said courtesy was dead in this day and age?

This is my second visit to Vito’s and I was surprised at how long it took for our drinks, plates and silverware to arrive. Just as I was starting to become aware of the delay, Rosa came over and explained that she was waiting to serve our drinks until the couple left so we could move to that table where there’d be enough room. Within another five minutes the couple were gone (they were waiting for a pickup) and we had the big table.

The restaurant is adorned with a few “Best of Phoenix” awards from recent years. Considering they’ve been in Phoenix for over 20 years (formerly they were in Chicago for 31 years) I was surprised they were all within the last few years. Some of them specifically designated best Chicago-style deep-dish pizza.

We had two thin-crust Chicago-style pizzas, both 12″ (their smallest), one pepperoni, one sausage. This review focuses on the pepperoni pizza, but with comments about the sausage pizza as well.

The pizza heavily loaded with cheese which had a mild flavor, and was both runny and stringy. The pepperoni was also quite mild, and lost amongst the cheese.

The sauce was a different story. It had a nice, pleasant flavor with plenty of spices, but it wasn’t at all sweet like several other Chicago-style places in town. That made it a clear winner for me over the others.

The type of bread used as the crust is where Chicago-style pizza and I usually part ways. It’s a finer, puffier and softer bread than traditional or New York style and typically has a bit of a buttery flavor. When made into a deep-dish pizza, for me, it overwhelms, but when made into a thin-crust, it can be a nice, solid foundation for the rest of the pizza.

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That’s the case with Vito’s. The crust on the pepperoni pizza was well-cooked, tasted good and didn’t overwhelm. Although I didn’t try any, I’m told the crust on the sausage pizza was undercooked, but that the sausage itself was very good. Since sausage is the #1 topping for Chicago-style pizza, I suppose it shouldn’t be surprising.

Overall, it was an enjoyable pizza and I’d certainly recommend it. I will go back in the near future and put the deep-dish to their test.

It was a quiet evening in the restaurant, and we had time to speak with the owners as we were the only diners in the place. They’re nice folks who seem well settled into a life of spending their evenings running a pizza shop.

Despite us being the only dine-in customers, they were making a good number of pizza for pickup, it seemed mostly for deep-dish. It takes 45 minutes for the deep-dish pizza, so I can understand the desire to call ahead.

Note that Vito’s is closed on Sundays and only open from 4-10PM on the other days.

Vito’s Pizza
4318 W. Northern
Glendale, AZ
(623) 930-1644

12″ Thin-crust Pepperoni Pizza, $10.00 or $0.09 (0.088) Per square inch.

Conclusion: Recommended

Disambiguation notice: (1/12/2008) There is another Vito’s Pizza in Mesa. To my knowledge, there is no affiliation with the two restaurants.

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Are pizzas left or right handed?

We won’t answer that question with this blog post.

Much though I’m terrified to combine a post about pizza (what else) and a blog called “The Sneeze”, I couldn’t pass this one up.

The Sneeze => The Great Pizza Orientation Test

Regardless of your feelings about Domino’s, the fact that you can order it online without having to talk to a human being is fantastic.

Type a little on your computer and magically a pizza shows up at your door. It’s the closest thing we have to Star Trek’s food synthesizer. Only it takes about 25 minutes to work. And the food delivery unit at my Domino’s has a bad mustache.

Obviously, when you’ve got that much power at your fingertips, the power is going to go to your head. Otherwise, you’ll just go insane.

I’ll leave it to you to decide which happened over at the Sneeze when they noticed pizzas have left and right sides…

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Noble Roman’s Pizza - Review (Sort of)

Noble Roman's

This is not my first encounter with Noble Roman’s. Shortly after they opened, I randomly chose them out of the phone book for a dinner/review pizza. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that, not only were they just a stall inside a Circle K on the corner of 3rd St and Osborn, but that they’re only open till 6:00PM. (Hours: 6:00AM-6:00PM, weekdays only)

Basically, I crossed them off my list and moved on.

If I haven’t mentioned it before, light rail construction in this town really is making a mess for driving around. I suppose the theory is that if they make life as miserable as possible for local residents for enough years we’ll all be glad to take the train. That’s a debate for another day and another forum.

What it does mean though is that, For the last week or so, I’ve been winding my way down alternate routes to work and stopping in that very same Circle K. It’s one of the extra large-sized Circle Ks with a third-party eatery inside. In this case, it’s Noble Roman’s Pizza and Tuscano’s Italian Style subs. Since I’m going to work before 6:00AM, they’re still closed, but this morning, I pulled a sub sandwich out of the deli case and realized (to my shock) that it wasn’t stale as a brick. (How often do you get a pre-packaged sandwich at a convenience store that isn’t stale?) My second surprise was that it was labelled a Tuscano’s sub. Apparently, Tuscano’s supplies this Circle K with fresh(er) sandwiches. It wasn’t the greatest sub sandwich I’ve ever had, but it was leaps and bounds ahead of any other deli case sub I’ve ever had. I made up my mind to at least give their pizzas a try on my way home today.

Noble’s Roman’s smaller pizzas (7″) are “grab-and-go” like those are Pizza Hut express, which means there’s a real chance you’ll be getting and old, warmed-over pizza. The pizza I purchased has 3:10 marked on the box, and was purchased at 3:20, making it somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes old. I ate it in the car in the parking lot so as not to allow it to get any older.

The first thing that positively overwhelmed me about this pizza was the sauce. It was swimming in it, and it’s quite sweet. Not what I really like.

The cheese was melted, not particularly cooked and seemed sparse, although that might be due to the overwhelming amount of sauce.

The pepperoni was alright, but reminded more than anything else of the pepperoni on a Red Baron frozen pizza. (It’s true, I always take half the pepperoni off frozen pizzas and eat them before cooking the pizza.)

The crust was cooked through, but not noteworthy.

Overall, since this was a pre-prepared pizza, it doesn’t qualify as a true Pizza Locust review, therefore I won’t make a formal recommendation. However, as food purchased at a convenience store, it’s a cut above the rest. I wouldn’t mind having one of these at breakfast time. Pity all they seem to make in the morning in a “Pan One Breakfast Omelette” that looks deceptively like a pizza, but is really a crust with ham, bacon, scrambled eggs and cheddar cheese.

Their website implies that there are other, “traditional” store locations, but the only one that I can see in the Phoenix area is this location. If I can find a traditional store, I’ll give them a full review.

7″ Pepperoni, $3.79 = $0.10 (0.098) per square inch
Noble Romans
309 E. Osborn
Phoenix, AZ 85012
(602) 264-8497

Conclusion: It’s sustenance. Waiting for opportunity to try traditional store location.

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